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FEATURED

OCT
26
2011

#120


An overcast day at Choza Mama in Burbank
I've been blogging about restaurants for some time now. It's been fun and I hope you've enjoyed reading as much as I have enjoyed reporting.

I guess it was just natural that I began to wonder exactly how many restaurants I've written about so far. So I counted all the restaurants listed on my homepage and the total came to 119. That makes this review of Choza Mama - a casual Peruvian restaurant located across the street from NBC Studios in Burbank - Number One Hundred Twenty. (If there are 25,000 restaurants in L.A. County, I guess I have about 24,900 more to go!)

From my investigations, I found out that Choza Mama is one of the more well regarded Peruvian restaurants in the San Fernando Valley. And if you've been reading this blog, you know how much I love Peruvian cuisine. Therefore, I had to

drop by and give Choza Mama a go.

Choza Mama in Burbank is very much fast food oriented. (In fact, the restaurant is referred to on their website as "Choza Mama Express".) You order your food at the front counter then pick it up when your number is called on a loudspeaker (read: no table service). The food is served on trays with plastic plates and utensils - nary a piece of hardware in sight.

What I ate:



1. Inka Kola (can, 1.69 USD). This is a soda indigenous to Peru (created by a British émigré), which is served at Peruvian restaurants pretty much everywhere (also sold locally at Latin American markets). Apparently, lemon verbena is the key ingredient, but I think Inka Kola tastes more like bubblegum - very sweet and honeyed. It is sunny yellow in color.

2. Lomo Saltado (12.94 USD): Flank steak sautéed with onions, tomatoes, french fries, and soy sauce and diner's choice of two sides. My two sides were Papa a la Huancaina (1.99 USD additional surcharge) and black beans. The Lomo was a tasty and straightforward rendition while the sides lacked brio. I was especially disappointed by the huancaina sauce: it was quite bland.

I thought Choza Mama's aji - the green salsa always present at the Peruvian table - was an exemplary version. It was a precise balance of the trinity of chile, cheese, and herb and when added to the black beans, it livened them up to great effect. In addition to the aji, there was a fiery ochre colored salsa that had a nice flavor profile.

I was disappointed at not finding anticuchos on the menu. I love meat grilled on a stick and I would've totally ordered some if they offered them.

Parking: There is a small parking lot behind the restaurant, off Ontario Street. You can park on the surrounding streets as well.

The Bill: 14.44 USD.

My Rating: No star out of four stars (satisfactory). Open Monday through Friday, 11 AM to 9 PM and Saturday and Sunday, 12 PM to 9 PM. Credit cards accepted. www.chozamama.com

Choza Mama on Urbanspoon

Last Word: Choza Mama doesn't have the best Peruvian food in town but the food is satisfactory nevertheless. I'd eat here again.

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